What is the best way to get lead off the forcing cone area of a blue-steel Ruger SA revolver?
david m asked:
I recently decided to make an exception to my no more revolver rule and reclaim an “old flame” (Ruger Single-action .22) and found a brand new, no longer cataloged Ruger Bisley Single-Six. It’s the nicest Single-action .22 that they make but I noticed that with CCI blazer and Federal Champion I got a lot of leading after 200 rounds around the forcing cone. I let it freeze and I tried to get it off with Shooter’s Choice Lead solvent and a nylon brush but some is still on there (particularly in between the cone and the top strap. Got any ideas that won’t remove bluing on the outside edges of the cylinder frame?
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I recently decided to make an exception to my no more revolver rule and reclaim an “old flame” (Ruger Single-action .22) and found a brand new, no longer cataloged Ruger Bisley Single-Six. It’s the nicest Single-action .22 that they make but I noticed that with CCI blazer and Federal Champion I got a lot of leading after 200 rounds around the forcing cone. I let it freeze and I tried to get it off with Shooter’s Choice Lead solvent and a nylon brush but some is still on there (particularly in between the cone and the top strap. Got any ideas that won’t remove bluing on the outside edges of the cylinder frame?
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April 28th, 2010 at 11:12 pm
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I sometimes use a sharpened popsicle stick to scrap the lead and powder residue from that area on my revolvers. It works great and won’t harm the finish at all.
Plastic “picks” that I bought from Midway serve the same purpose.
The “burn rings” on the face of the cylinder can be removed with a bronze bristled “toothbrush type” brush dipped in gun cleaning solvent without harming the blueing.
Good luck -
April 29th, 2010 at 3:36 am
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A nylon brush ain’t gonna cut it. And lead solvent is really more of a marketing ploy than anything else. The only way to get lead out of the barrel (or forcing cone) is with a bronze brush and a lot of elbow grease.
I mean, come on, it’s METAL! Metal that has been melted into place. Try taking a lead bullet and rubbing your nylon brush across it 10 times. Notice anything? Now try again with a bronze brush. See the difference?
They also make stainless steel brushes, but I’m personally afraid of those. A steel-bristle brush may be hard enough to damage the bore too.
For buildup between the cone and top strap, I usually use dental picks.
Congratulations on your find, by the way!
May 1st, 2010 at 3:42 pm
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I don’t know if they make it in .22 cal. but I always used a LEWIS LEAD REMOVER system to get the lead out of my .38/.357 after a match. The system uses Bronze wire woven screen patches that compression fit over a rubber insert for the cleaning rod. You would pull the screen snugly up to the forcing cone and twist the screen against the cone. it literally stripped the lead off in chunks.
Also, to remove the lead from around the intersection of the barrel and frame get a dentists ‘pick’ and pick the area clean. Also works like a charm between the top strap and barrel.